Precious
Metals Guide 
Platinum: Platinum
is pure, an expression of integrity, a reflection of inner truth. Platinum's purity
endows it with a brilliant white luster. This helps to reflect the true radiance
of diamonds. Because it is generally 95% pure (18 karat gold is 75% pure), platinum
jewelry does not fade or tarnish and keeps its looks for a lifetime. Platinum's
purity makes it hypoallergenic and ideal for those with sensitive skin.
Platinum is rare, the coveted treasure of discerning individuals. There is very
little platinum on this earth and it is found in very few places around the world.
This exquisite metal is 35 times rarer than gold. In fact, it is estimated that
if all the platinum in the world were poured into one Olympic swimming pool it
would be scarcely deep enough to cover your ankles. Gold would fill more than
three pools. Platinum's rarity makes it exclusive and distinctive - a celebration
of your individuality. Platinum jewelry is the perfect choice
for a lifetime of everyday wear. Its density and weight make it more durable than
other jewelry metals. Platinum does not wear away and holds precious stones firmly
and securely. Like all precious metals, platinum scratches. However, the scratch
on a platinum piece is merely a displacement of the metal and none of its volume
is lost. So, even though wearing it each and every day may leave an impression
on the surface, it remains what it was - a symbol for all things eternal.
In addition to its strength and density, platinum has another remarkable
quality - pliability. Platinum is so pliable, that just one gram of the metal
can be drawn to produce a fine wire over one mile (almost 2 km) long. This quality
has enabled jewelers to create some amazing versatile platinum mesh accessories,
which could not be fashioned from other precious metals. Platinum is also in demand
in other fields - it is used in industry, most notably in catalytic converters. Platinum
also plays an important role in medicine. It is not affected by the oxidizing
reaction of blood, has excellent conductivity, and is compatible with living tissue. Because
of these properties, platinum is used for pacemakers. At present, more than
50,000 people are living healthily on pacemakers. Platinum is a life-saving
metal for these people.
care: Clean platinum in the same way you clean other fine jewelry - using
a pre-packaged jewelry cleaner or by soaking it in a mild solution of soap and
warm water then gently rubbing it with a soft cloth.
Gold: Gold won't
tarnish, rust, or corrode, and though it's very strong, it is also the most malleable
of all metals.
Pure gold is too soft to withstand the stresses
of every-day wear, so it is alloyed with a mixture of metals like silver, copper,
nickel, and zinc to give it strength and durability. Karatage, noted by a number
followed by "k" indicates purity, or how much of the metal in a piece
of jewelry is gold. Karatage is expressed in 24ths, making 24k gold 100% gold.
The color of gold is determined by two things, the type of metals
that it is mixed with and the percentage of each metal used.
Pure gold is 24 karat, meaning 1000 purity not suitable for jewelry. 18k gold
contains more precious metal than 14k gold. It is composed of 75% gold, which
is alloyed with other metals to make it strong enough to withstand every-day wear.
Because 14k gold is composed of only 58.3% gold, and 41.7% other metals that give
it strength, its gold color is not as rich as 18k gold. 14k gold is most commonly
found in cases where strength is most important, like in earring backs and bracelet
clasps. Because 18k white gold is 75% gold, and 14k white gold
is 58.3% gold, jewelry made from these metals has a slight yellow color. To enhance
the whiteness, almost all white gold is plated with rhodium, a shiny, white metal
which is extremely hard. Depending on the amount of wear to a piece of jewelry,
over time this rhodium plating may wear off, revealing the original metal color.
Re-plating is a simple process that can be done to restore your jewelry's whiteness
if needed. Rose gold gets its color from a larger proportion
of copper in the metal alloy. This gives the gold a beautiful pink color.
The price of gold jewelry is dependent upon the purity of the gold
used or karat weight, as well as the design and construction of the piece of jewelry
The Karatage system:
Gold jewelry is usually described in terms of karatage, which is
an indication of its gold content, for example 18 Karat or 18K. Alternatively,
the gold content can be described in terms of ‘fineness’, which is the gold content
expressed in parts per thousand, for example 750 (which is 18 carat or 75.0% gold).
Since the price paid by the purchaser for gold jewelry is based
on the amount of gold in it, it is important for the consumer to know how many
karats of gold there is in the piece. Most jewelry worldwide is marked with the
karatage or fineness. This may be part of a Hallmark on the jewelry.
Pure gold (‘fine gold’) is 24 karats and so 24 karats is theoretically 100% gold.
|
Carats/Karats |
Fineness, ‰ |
Gold content, % |
Comments |
|
24 |
999 | 99.9 |
- |
| 24 |
990 | 99.0 |
Minimum allowed |
| 22 |
916 | 91.6 |
Indian subcontinent |
| 21 |
875 |
87.5 | Arabic countries |
| (19.2) |
800 |
80.0 | Standard in Portugal |
| 18 |
750 |
75.0 | Standard
Karatage |
| 14 |
585 |
58.5 | 583/58.3% in USA |
| 10
| 417 |
41.7 |
Minimum in USA |
|
9 | 375 |
37.5 |
U.K. standard |
|
8 | 333 |
33.3 |
Minimum Germany |
care: Clean gold in the same way you
clean other fine jewelry - using a pre-packaged jewelry cleaner or by soaking
it in a mild solution of soap and warm water then gently rubbing it with a soft
cloth. Silver:
With its appealing, cool and crisp white luster, sterling
silver jewelry combines the endurance of a precious metal with an uncanny ability
to adapt to fashion’s demands. The unlimited selection of designs available, from
demure and traditional to bold and dramatic, allows you to build a vast and personalized
silver jewelry wardrobe as varied as your every mood, style and budget.
Sterling silver: Silver of .925 fineness — 92.5 % silver; 7.5% copper.
Also called "Standard Silver."
care: Clean silver in the same way you clean other fine jewelry - using
a pre-packaged silver cleaner or by soaking it in a mild solution of soap and
warm water then gently rubbing it with a soft cloth, remember to dry completely
because moisture will cause silver to tarnish.
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